Journey through Rajasthan: Discovering the Maharaja’s Realm

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Located in the northern part of the country, the state of Rajasthan is the most populous and most visited in India. It is the land of the maharajas, with palaces worthy of the Arabian Nights, old fortified cities, and well-preserved colonial architecture. It is also an agricultural region marked by significant poverty. Amidst fields of millet, maize, and sunflowers, farmers survive through their small vegetable gardens.

Since it is impractical for tourists to rent a car (who would want to risk hitting a sacred cow?), hiring a car with driver is a good compromise.

As the air-conditioned bus weaved through the often bumpy roads amidst animals, we could appreciate stunning landscapes, encounter pilgrims walking towards a holy site, catch glimpses of nomadic groups transporting their meager possessions on donkeys, and observe families peacefully eating under the shade of a tree. We even made a stop along the road to feed cows, an excellent way to improve one’s karma.

Between the bustling crowds in the chaotic cities, we visited well-maintained tourist sites that offered incredible tranquility once we passed through their gates.

Here are the four main stages of a typical itinerary through Rajasthan.

Jaipur

Incredible energy radiates from Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan. It is an explosion of colors, scents, and sounds. Women wear brightly colored saris, many men sport mustaches, while others take pride in their beards and henna-dyed hair. All sorts of extravagances are allowed.

Daily life unfolds in the streets before our eyes: people bathing, getting their hair done, and preparing meals over open fires. Elephants and camels, sometimes adorned lavishly, strut by as monkeys jump from one rooftop to another. It is a grand whirlwind, a joyful cacophony.

Surprisingly, Jaipur is the only city in Rajasthan built according to an urban plan dating back to 1728. In 1876, during the visit of the Prince of Wales, the city was entirely painted pink. It retains this beautiful saffron-hued color to this day.

Among the various markets and bazaars, a visit to the Jantar Mantar astronomical observatory is a must. Since 1729, these marble and stone instruments have provided the time down to the second, the date, planetary positions, and even weather predictions.

You can also explore the City Palace (akin to an Indian Versailles) and the Hawa Mahal (an impressive baroque facade with 953 curved windows that allowed women to catch the air and watch performances without being seen).

Jaipur is renowned for its gemstone craftsmen. Thousands of families have worked in this sector for generations, and there are jewelry shops on every corner.

Jodhpur

The second-largest city in Rajasthan, Jodhpur, is situated on the edge of the Thar Desert. The old city, with all its houses painted blue, is surrounded by a 10 km stone wall punctuated by monumental gates. At its center stands the Mehrangarh Fort, accessed via a road winding along the rocky hillside. One must pass through seven gates to reach the fortress built in the 15th century. The expansive palace complex, intertwined with one another, is arranged around inner courtyards. It is a true lesson in Indian history.

Jodhpur’s market, around the Clock Tower, is vibrant and colorful with thousands of craft items. Bargaining is the norm, and it is not always to be believed that the seller’s mother or grandfather made the items.

Pushkar

A trip to India is incomplete without a stop at a holy place of Hinduism.

Pilgrims from all corners of India come to Pushkar. In the heart of the city, the lake said to have been created by Brahma himself is one of the country’s oldest pilgrimage sites.

Navigating through a maze of narrow streets lined with vendors, making your way through the crowd and bypassing numerous cows, you will arrive at the lake’s shores. Stone steps gently slope down to allow pilgrims to perform their ablutions in the sacred waters.

Around the lake, numerous temples abound, with the most significant being the Brahma Temple. If you happen to be there during the full moon of October, you will witness India’s largest camel fair.

Shekhavati

Comprising several small villages, Shekhavati is known for its wall paintings. In the 18th and 19th centuries, wealthy silk, spice, and camel traders constructed sumptuous houses adorned with frescoes, known as havelis. In the 20th century, they abandoned these homes to migrate to major cities like Delhi, Kolkata, or Mumbai.

Today, some of these houses are inhabited by families who open them to visitors to earn a few dollars. This income is crucial for them. Nevertheless, I found it awkward to enter while women were doing laundry or children were working on their homework. Though less well-preserved, beautiful frescoes also grace the exterior walls of these homes.

In these villages, tourists are a very visible minority. As soon as a tour bus stops, streets that seemed deserted are suddenly flooded with children peddling trinkets. Always polite, smiling, and non-aggressive, some speak several languages. Their lively, hopeful gazes remain etched in my memory.