Fattened duck liver terrine with thyme pear chutney – Recipe by a Hungarian Master Chef

Barnabás “Barni” Hack, head chef of Costes Downtown and author of “Today Dad Cooks”, believes home cooking shouldn’t be a mothers-only territory – his book is all about giving dads the confidence to take over the stove, especially on special occasions. In this spirit he shares one of his most elegant festive dishes: Hungarian Duck Liver Terrine with Thyme Pear Chutney, a refined yet achievable recipe that turns any father into the hero of the holiday table.

As the holidays approach, the same question pops up in many households: who’s cooking this year? For Barnabás “Barni” Hack, head chef of Costes Downtown in Budapest, the answer is simple: it’s time for dads to step up to the stove.

“A man’s presence in the kitchen isn’t some rare gesture or stand-in,” he says. “It’s one of the best ways to actually be there for your family – literally and emotionally.”

Barni is the author of „Ma apa főz” (“Today Dad Cooks”), a cookbook designed especially for fathers who might be more confident at the grill than at the stove. The feedback surprised even him: countless dads wrote to say that this was the first book that finally made cooking feel achievable.

“You don’t need a Michelin star or kitchen confidence to start,” he explains. “You need a bit of courage, some curiosity – and the desire to surprise your family with something you made yourself.”

For him, cooking is not a competition, and certainly not “mom’s territory”.
When children see their father cooking, helping, plating, and serving, it shapes their memories of family life just as much as any big Christmas gift.

“The point of a shared meal isn’t that everything is perfect,” Barni says. “It’s that you prepare it together, eat it together – and you are together.”

Now, before the festive season kicks off, he shares one of the most elegant recipes from his book – a classic of Hungarian gastronomy with a modern twist.

Hungarian tradition on the plate: fattened duck liver for the holidays

Hungary is famous for its hízott kacsamáj – fattened duck liver, a close cousin of French foie gras. It has long been a festive centrepiece on Hungarian tables, especially at Christmas and New Year’s Eve. Served as a terrine, with sweet wine and fruit, it’s rich, luxurious and surprisingly simple once you know the technique.

Barni’s version pairs a silky duck liver terrine with a fragrant thyme pear chutney and fresh brioche (or sweet Hungarian kalács). It’s the kind of dish that looks like fine dining, but any brave home cook – yes, dads too – can pull it off with a bit of focus.

Ingredients

For the duck liver terrine

• 600 g fattened duck liver (foie gras)
• 30 g cocoa powder
• 5 pinches of salt
• freshly ground black pepper

For the thyme pear chutney

• 4 pears
• 0.5 dl (50 ml) Tokaji Aszú sweet wine
• 2 tbsp sugar
• 3 sprigs fresh thyme

To serve

• fresh brioche or sweet kalács (Eastern European sweet milk bread)

Method

1. Preparing the duck liver

1. Take the duck liver out of the fridge and place it on a chopping board.
2. Break off the smaller lobe, then carefully locate and remove the main vein running through the centre of the liver. Use your fingers to follow it as far as possible so you can pull out most of it without shredding the liver.
3. Once deveined, cut the liver into pieces roughly the size of your thumb.
4. Season generously with salt and freshly ground black pepper, and toss so that every surface is coated.

Now comes Barni’s “restaurant trick” – no special terrine mould needed:

5. Spread out a clean kitchen towel on the counter. (Important: use one that has not been washed with fabric softener, as it will transfer its smell to the food.)
6. Place the liver pieces in a line on the towel and, using your hands, shape them into a tight cylinder.
7. Roll the towel around the liver as tightly as you can, forming a firm log.
8. Do not unwrap it. Tie both ends with kitchen string, then tie 3–4 places along the roll so it cannot open during cooking.

2. Cooking and chilling the terrine

1. Bring a large pot of water to the boil.
2. Carefully lower the towel-wrapped liver roll into the boiling water and cook for 1.5 minutes.
3. Immediately transfer it into a bowl of cold water and chill for about 5 minutes.

If everything went right, you’ll see the fat having seeped out slightly through the towel during cooking, leaving a beautiful, compact cylinder of duck liver inside.

4. Unwrap the towel and lay out the cooked liver pieces.
5. Sprinkle with cocoa powder and gently toss by hand so that every piece is evenly coated. The cocoa adds a subtle bitterness and depth that balances the richness of the liver.
6. Press the pieces into a mould of your choice and weigh it down lightly to compact it into a terrine. Alternatively, lay the pieces on cling film, roll into a tight cylinder and twist the ends to form a neat log – this gives you perfectly round slices for serving.
7. Refrigerate for at least 2–3 hours, or until firm enough to slice cleanly.

3. Thyme pear chutney

1. Peel the pears and cut them into roughly 2 × 2 cm cubes.
2. In a pan, gently heat the sugar until it melts and turns into a light caramel – watch carefully so it doesn’t burn.
3. Deglaze with the Tokaji Aszú: pour the wine over the caramel (it will bubble vigorously), then add the pear cubes.
4. Add the thyme sprigs whole.
5. Simmer until the pears have softened but still hold their shape.
6. Remove from the heat, fish out the thyme sprigs and let the chutney cool completely.

4. Serving

1. Slice the chilled duck liver terrine into slices about a finger’s width thick.
2. Toast or gently warm the brioche/kalács, if you like.
3. Serve the terrine with the thyme pear chutney on the side and fresh bread or brioche.

The result is a festive starter that tastes like a fine dining menu – but can absolutely be made at home, even by someone who has so far only watched the kitchen action from a safe distance.

As Barni likes to say:

you don’t need permission to cook for your family. Just a good recipe, a bit of attention – and the holiday magic will take care of the rest.

You can discover even more Hungarian recipes

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