Riyadh: a fusion of ancient traditions and rapid modernisation – our trip to Saudi Arabia

Saudi Arabia is often portrayed in many different ways, but experiencing it firsthand was an entirely different journey. From the deep respect for Arab and Islamic culture to the breathtaking pace of development in Riyadh, the Saudi capital offers a truly unique destination for travellers.

When I told my friends that my next trip was to Saudi Arabia, the first question they asked was: what is even there? Sure, Cristiano Ronaldo signed with a club there, and the desert might be beautiful, but what is there to see as a tourist? While the country may seem distant in many ways, a deeper dive into its history, culture, and ambitious development projects reveals a captivating travel destination.

These major innovations are encapsulated in one term: Vision 2030, Saudi Arabia’s most extensive reform and development programme. King Salman bin Abdulaziz Al Saud ascended to the throne on 23 January 2015, and his son, Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, has been the face of the Vision 2030 programme, launched in 2016. Aimed at modernising the economy and society while reducing dependence on oil, the programme focuses on economic diversification, social reforms (including women’s rights and education), and infrastructure and urban development—including significant investments in tourism.

The only direct flight from Budapest to Riyadh is operated by Wizz Air, flying twice weekly. After a little over five hours, I landed at King Khalid International Airport, which boasts five terminals. If it is your first time entering the country, they take your fingerprint at immigration, and it is helpful to have your visa ready. The airport is about 35 kilometres from the city centre, and you can take a taxi or even the metro to downtown Riyadh.

Essential facts about Riyadh and Saudi Arabia

Before delving deeper into my journey, it is helpful to understand the basics. Saudi Arabia, officially the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, was established in 1932, unifying previously scattered emirates. Covering much of the Arabian Peninsula, it spans approximately 2.15 million square kilometres—roughly 23 times the size of Hungary. Despite its vast size, much of the land is desert, and the population is only about 35 million—just 3.5 times Hungary’s size. Additionally, nearly 17 million of these residents are foreign workers from around the world.

Riyadh, home to 7.5 million people, sits on the Najd Plateau and is by far the country’s largest city. The name translates to “gardens,” referencing the region’s desert oases, which were historically crucial for survival. Timing your visit is important, as the city’s desert climate means scorching summers (average 35°C, highs of 43°C) and mild winters (average 15°C, lows of 5°C). My hosts unanimously advised visiting between December and February. Interestingly, Saudi Arabia employs cloud seeding technology to enhance rainfall, a method of modifying clouds to encourage precipitation.

Traditional attire and culture

One of the most striking differences from the Western world is the traditional clothing worn by men and women. Saudi women often wear a black abaya—a loose, long-sleeved robe—paired with a hijab (headscarf) or sometimes a niqab (face veil). Meanwhile, Saudi men typically wear a thawb (also called a “thoob”), a long, ankle-length garment, predominantly in white. They complete the look with a ghutra or shemagh (a white or red-and-white checkered headdress), secured with a black agal cord.

While Western clothing is an option, the vast majority continue to wear traditional garments, which I found admirable. My local guide, Mosab, explained that choices often reflect personal beliefs—within a single family, one sister may dress in a Western style while the others stick to traditional attire.

Overall, I was impressed by the friendliness of the Saudi people. Many recognised the name Puskás, and even Dominik Szoboszlai was mentioned by some football enthusiasts. While Hungary is a small country that is not widely known here, interest in Budapest is growing, which is promising for tourism.

Skyscrapers, metro and city life

I stayed in the Al Olaya district, one of Riyadh’s central areas. Walking around, I saw luxury brands, high-end hotels, restaurants, and cafés. As alcohol consumption is banned in Saudi Arabia, young people often meet in coffee shops, enjoying tea, coffee, desserts, and even hours-long conversations over shisha.

Riyadh is undeniably a modern metropolis, with wide boulevards, gleaming skyscrapers, and constant traffic. I could not help but wish Budapest had a dedicated business district with towering skyscrapers, allowing Hungarian architectural talent to shine. The Saudis take immense pride in their skyline and are continuously building more. Plans are in place to construct the world’s tallest tower in Riyadh, surpassing Dubai’s Burj Khalifa, and the long-stalled Jeddah Tower could also be revived.