Egri Bikavér – the history of a world-class Hungaricum

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Source: Furmint Photo

We have been sipping it for centuries – on special occasions, jolly nights out, or just quietly sitting in our favourite armchair at home after a long working day. Yet, most of us do not know much about the origin of this national treasure. The unique Hungarian style went through some serious ups and down over the past decades but always came out triumphantly. In this post, we will reveal the fascinating history of Egri Bikavér so your next glass will taste even more divine knowing its rich heritage.

The unique wine region of Eger

As the name suggests, Egri Bikavér originates from the historic city of Eger, in northern Hungary. The stunning county capital is the centre of Hungary’s most famous wine region and anchors hundreds of hectares of vineyards. Besides, it is also worth a weekend visit for its excellent thermal baths, opulent Baroque mansions and churches and its picturesque Ottoman minaret. Another intriguing fact about the region is that it suffered one of the biggest volcanic eruptions in Europe, some 17.2 million years ago. Volcanic soil is known to be particularly fertile and high in mineral content, adding a distinct character to the grapes grown in such terrains.

The art of winemaking goes back to the 10th century, to the early days of medieval Hungary, when Eger was founded by Saint Stephen, the first Christian king of the country. The hilly region was perfect for cultivating wine as it was soon discovered by the local bishop and the monks of the Cistercian monastery. After the ravaging marauds of the Mongolian army in the 13th century, French settlers arrived in Eger introducing various advanced wine-making techniques to the locals. By the eve of the 16th century, winemaking was the main source of income for most residents who took great pride in their top-notch produce.

Captain Dobó’s powerful potion

Interestingly, back in the day, the name bikavér (bull’s blood) would refer to all rich, deep-colored red wines. There are many different stories about how the name Egri Bikavér came into existence. Legend has it that the fearless soldiers of Captain Dobó used to get their courage from drinking red wine to ward off the Ottomans who tried to capture the castle of Eger. When the Turkish enemy learned about the Hungarian soldiers’ bizarre practice of drinking bull’s blood (which they took literally), they got so frightened that eventually retreated. The first written reference to Egri Bikavér was made by Hungarian poet, János Garay, who called this full-bodied carmine nectar his muse, the drink of the greatest Hungarian patriots and burning fire in his 1846 poem ‘Szegszárdi borének” (wine song from the city of Szegszárd).

The past and present of Egri Bikavér

Egri Bikavér, this unique mostly Kéfrankos-based blend, was born out of the marriage of cadernet, merlot and kadarka, however, the exact quantities of each grape style varied a lot over the centuries. The first recipe officially recorded was linked to winemaker Jenő Gröber in 1912, who set this delicious Hungarian wine on the path to domestic and then worldwide success. However, the journey did have some bumps. In the dark, Communist regime, Egri Bikavér’s previously immaculate reputation was badly stained by agricultural mismanagement. The prematurely early harvest, mass production and the practice of adding sugar to the grape juice all took a serious toll on both the quality and the name of this famous Hungarian style. Fortunately, the local winemakers worked tirelessly to gain back the former glory of Egri Bikavér and their effort did not go unnoticed. In 2017, Egri Bikavér was selected in the prestigious list of Hungarikums, a collection of national treasures that best represent the country’s culture and spirit. Ever since Egri Bikavér has been a quintessential part of Hungary’s rich national heritage and is enjoyed worldwide by millions of wine lovers. The latest news related to this famous style is that its special “1552 Eger” inscribed bottle can only be used for Egri Bikavérs since last year based on the decision of the creators of the bottle, the members of Eger Wine Workshop.