As water quality steadily improves, a growing number of major cities are rediscovering their rivers not merely as scenic backdrops but as destinations for leisure and swimming. In Budapest, bathing in the Danube was banned in 1973, yet today three designated river beaches are once again in operation. The question now is whether the historic bathing spots—once found in front of Parliament, along the grand Pest embankments, or beneath Gellért Hill—might also return, reviving a tradition enjoyed by earlier generations at the turn of the last century.
Budapest owes much of its striking beauty to the Danube, which cuts dramatically through the city. Tourist boats glide along its surface, motor launches circle, and residents admire it daily from bridges and promenades. Yet immersion in its waters has long been denied to modern inhabitants; that pleasure belonged to their forebears, who once frequented expansive, timber-framed bathing structures moored along the riverbanks—even directly before the Parliament.
A river at the heart of daily life
Not so long ago, the Danube was far more than a picturesque element. It was a central feature of urban life: a place where Budapest residents swam, exercised, socialised, and sought respite from the summer heat. Even actors and performers, unable to retreat to lakeside villas during the season, would repair to the river baths.
By the early 19th century, bathing had become a natural part of life in the capital. Records of the first known Danube bath in Pest date back to 1788, followed by a proliferation of floating wooden pools and bathhouses. These seasonal establishments operated from May to September, before being dismantled or towed away at summer’s end, only to reappear with the return of warmer weather.
In 1836, the first public bath in the capital opened its doors, and that same year saw the inaugural open-water swimming race on the Danube, stretching as far as Csepel. The event later evolved into a city-spanning swimming excursion, a popular tradition that endured for decades, the weekly newsletter of Fortepan wrote.
Artists, workers and industrialists alike
The golden age of Danube bathing came in the early 20th century, particularly during the 1920s and 1930s. At one point, as many as nine river baths operated simultaneously in Budapest, with further beaches opening by the end of the decade. Among the most popular was a sandy riverside lido opposite Margaret Island, complete with cabins, refreshment stalls and a pleasant setting. Contemporary accounts note that many prominent figures from Budapest’s artistic circles were regular visitors.
For a long time, however, river bathing remained largely the preserve of the better-off, as most facilities charged admission. Those of more modest means sought relief along more remote stretches of the river, often in hazardous conditions. This began to change with the opening of the predecessor to the Palatinus baths in 1919, followed by the establishment of a free bathing area at the Kopaszi Dam, which made the experience accessible to a broader public.
Decline and prohibition
The Second World War brought this era to an abrupt end. Many baths were badly damaged, while deteriorating water quality and increasing river traffic gradually rendered their operation untenable. The last remaining river bath, near the Palatinus with access from Margaret Island, survived until 1949. In 1973, the city imposed a complete ban on bathing in the Danube.
A cautious revival
In recent years, however, the tide has begun to turn. Water quality in the Danube has improved significantly, to the extent that Hungary’s open-water swimmers were able to train in the river ahead of the Paris Olympics—an advantage they themselves credit as decisive. Bettina Fábián, who finished fifth, alongside Olympic champion Kristóf Rasovszky and bronze medallist Dávid Betlehem, have all affirmed that their preparation in the Danube played a crucial role in their success in the Seine.
Designated free bathing areas have also begun to reappear. At present, three operate in Budapest. The Római-part Plázs is open free of charge between 19 June and 23 August. At the Kopaszi Dam, Flava Beach offers a sandy shoreline and bathing facilities without charge, alongside a range of paid services, including stand-up paddleboard hire.
Last year also saw the opening of a free bathing area at Árasztó-part, where visitors may enter the water within a narrow, buoy-marked strip along the bank. This site is operated by Budapest Spas and Hot Springs (BGYH) in cooperation with the Valyo – City and River Association.
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Looking ahead
Valyo, in particular, has been instrumental in efforts to revive river bathing within the inner city—potentially even in locations currently occupied by hotel boats—echoing the popular river baths of the 1920s and 1930s. The organisation has identified 49 potential sites, one of which—Árasztó-part—has already been realised. Formal planning and feasibility processes have been initiated with the backing of Dávid Vitézy, whose proposal secured approval from the Budapest General Assembly. Now serving as a minister, Vitézy remains a strong advocate of the project, Világgazdaság wrote.
If progress continues apace, Budapest could see the opening of its first central river bath within a matter of years. According to reports earlier this month, possible locations under consideration include Margaret Island, Jane Haining Embankment, the Buda side of Margaret Island, and Óbuda Island.
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